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Guide to Candle Waxes and Additives

Choosing a wax is usually the first decision in a candle project, and a few waxes need additives to perform their best. Here is how to match a wax to your candle type, when a wax needs an additive, and what Vybar and UV stabilizer actually do.

Bag of white wax pastilles and a bag of white powder flanking a dark bowl of soy wax flakes, with red and orange votives and lit candles behind, on a wood table

Choosing a wax is usually the first decision in a candle project, and it shapes almost everything that follows. We carry over 15 different waxes, each formulated for a specific candle type and look. Most are pre-blended, which means the manufacturer already added what the wax needs, so additives are optional. A smaller set of base waxes and special cases do call for an additive like Vybar. This guide covers both: how to match a wax to your candle, and what the common wax additives do and how much to use. Browse the full range in our candle wax.

Choosing a Wax by Candle Type

The wax you need is determined by the type of candle you are making. The deciding factors are how hard the wax sets, how much it shrinks as it cools, and whether it has to release from a mold or hold to a container. Each candle type sits at a different point on those tradeoffs.

Match the Wax to the Candle

Container Candles

The most popular style and the easiest for a beginner. Because the candle burns in the vessel it was poured into, the wax does not need to support itself or release from a mold. Shrinkage is unwanted here: it pulls the wax away from the glass and looks flawed, so container waxes are soft and many are single-pour, which shortens production time. See How to Make Container Candles.

Votive Candles

Votives burn in a holder, so the wax does not need to be as hard as a pillar. It does have to release from the votive mold, so some shrinkage is required. Some votive waxes are single-pour and others need a second pour. See How to Make Votive Candles.

Pillar Candles

A pillar stands on its own while burning, so it needs a hard wax that holds its shape. It also has to release from the mold, and the shrinkage that allows release usually means a second and sometimes a third pour. See How to Make Pillar Candles.

Wax Tarts and Melts

Tarts are close to votives: firm enough to release from a mold, but with a melt point low enough to melt in a warmer. A wax that is too soft will not release cleanly. See How to Make Wax Tarts.

Three lit cream candles in clear glass tumblers on stacked black books beside eucalyptus
Container candles burn in the vessel they are poured into, so the wax stays soft and holds to the glass.
Unlit red and orange votive candles side by side on a woven beige cloth
Votives burn in a holder, so the wax needs some shrinkage to release from the mold.
Cluster of lit cream and grey pillar candles of varying heights with seashells on a bamboo mat
Pillars stand on their own, so they need a hard wax that releases cleanly from the mold.
Blue silicone mold of square wax tarts in teal, purple, pink, orange, cream and tan
Tarts need a firm wax with a melt point low enough to melt in a warmer.

The other major distinction is what the wax is made of. Candle waxes have traditionally been paraffin based. Soy waxes have grown in popularity as their quality improved, and many makers prefer a natural wax grown by American farmers. Both perform well across candle types when matched correctly. Our soy wax guide and paraffin wax guide cover the selection within each base, and Soy vs. Paraffin: The BIG Debate compares the two head to head. Shop both families in the candle wax, including dedicated soy wax and paraffin wax sections.

Wax by Candle Type at a Glance

Candle typeHardness neededShrinkageTypical poursWhy
ContainerSoftMinimal (unwanted)Often single-pourBurns in the vessel; shrinkage pulls wax from the glass
VotiveMediumSome requiredSingle or doubleReleases from a votive mold
PillarHardRequiredTwo, sometimes threeStands on its own; shrinkage releases it from the mold
Tart or meltFirm, low melt pointSome requiredSingle or doubleReleases from a mold, then melts in a warmer

When a Wax Needs an Additive

Most of our waxes are pre-blended. A base paraffin was enhanced by the manufacturer with the ingredients it needs, so no additives are required, and as a general rule we do not recommend adding them to a pre-blended wax. A wax described as a base paraffin is the exception: it is a base product, usually at a lower price, with no performance-enhancing additives blended in. A base paraffin will likely need an additive such as Vybar to reach its best results.

Candle-Making Additives

Two additives cover most needs: Vybar, which helps wax hold fragrance and deepens color, and UV stabilizer, which slows color fade. Both come in measured rates per pound of wax, and both are worth understanding before you reach for them. Browse the full set in our wax additives.

Vybar

Vybar is a polymer used mainly to help wax retain fragrance oil. With Vybar in the mix, the wax holds more oil before any of it separates out, which lets you raise the fragrance load and improve hot throw, the scent a candle gives while burning. Vybar also raises opacity and deepens dye colors. It is the modern alternative to stearic acid[2], the older fatty-acid hardener that earlier candle makers used for similar purposes. Vybar belongs to a class of branched poly(alpha-olefin) polymers shown to inhibit fragrance and dye from separating out of paraffin during storage[1].

The two grades differ by the wax they suit.

Vybar 103 vs 260

Vybar 103

For harder, higher melt point waxes such as pillar and votive waxes. Use it when the wax sets firm and stands or releases from a mold.

Vybar 260

For softer, lower melt point container waxes. Use it when the wax stays soft and adheres to the vessel.

A typical rate is a quarter to a half teaspoon per pound of wax, and it varies by application. You can use Vybar to push fragrance load higher, but do not overdo it: too much Vybar can trap fragrance inside the wax and reduce hot throw, the opposite of what you want. Add conservatively, then test a candle before scaling up.

UV Stabilizer

UV stabilizer, also called a UV inhibitor or UV absorber, slows the color fade that comes from light exposure. Dyed wax fades because ultraviolet light photodegrades the dye over time, a light-driven process that heat and moisture accelerate[3]. A UV stabilizer works the way UV absorbers do in other dyed materials: it absorbs UV in the roughly 290 to 400 nanometer range and converts that energy to harmless heat before it can break down the color[4]. Fragrance oils can also shift or fade a color. A UV stabilizer slows the fade but does not stop it completely.

Lone Star Candle Supply bag of white UV Stabilizer powder, ACC-003, 2 oz, beside a bowl with a gold spoon
UV stabilizer is a fine powder added by weight, useful for candles displayed under light.

UV stabilizer is not present in a pre-blended wax, and it is worth adding for any wax and candle type, especially candles that will sit on a store shelf or in a window for an extended period. Recommended usage is about 0.2% if measuring by weight, and about 1/2 teaspoon per pound if measuring by volume.

Additives at a Glance

AdditiveWhat it doesTypical rateBest for
Vybar 103Holds fragrance, raises opacity, deepens color1/4 to 1/2 tsp per lbHard, high melt point pillar and votive waxes
Vybar 260Holds fragrance, raises opacity, deepens color1/4 to 1/2 tsp per lbSoft, low melt point container waxes
UV Light StabilizerSlows color fade from light1/4 to 1/2 tsp per lbAny candle displayed under light

Once your wax and additives are chosen, our How to Heat & Pour Wax for Candle Making guide covers melt and pour temperatures for each wax type, and How to Prepare Wax for Pouring walks through measuring and setting up before you pour.

Sources

  1. Additive to prevent oil separation in paraffin waxes (US Patent 6,776,808 B2) United States Patent and Trademark Office, 2004
  2. Stearic acid, CID 5281 (octadecanoic acid) PubChem, National Library of Medicine
  3. Photobleaching of organic fluorophores: quantitative characterization, mechanisms, protection Methods in Applied Fluorescence (National Library of Medicine, PubMed 32028269), 2020
  4. Dyed polyester fabrics with improved lightfastness (US Patent 4,812,139 A) United States Patent and Trademark Office, 1989

Frequently Asked Questions

Why are there so many different candle waxes?

Different waxes are formulated for different candle types: container, votive, pillar, and tart. Within a single type you often have several choices that trade off hardness, color consistency, and number of pours. A container wax can be soft and single-pour or firmer and need a second pour; a pillar wax can give a uniform color or a mottled effect. The wax you pick is determined by the type of candle you are making.

Do I have to use a specific wax for my candle type?

The wax follows the candle. Container waxes are soft and designed to adhere to the vessel you pour them into, so they hold to the glass instead of releasing. Pillar, votive, and tart waxes are harder because they have to release from a mold. A container blend in a mold usually will not release, and a hard pillar wax in a jar tends to pull away from the glass. Match the wax to whether the candle burns in its container or stands on its own.

What is Vybar and what does it do?

Vybar is a polymer additive that helps wax hold more fragrance oil without the oil separating out, and it also raises opacity and deepens dye colors. It is the modern alternative to stearic acid. Vybar 103 is for harder, higher melt point waxes such as pillar and votive waxes; Vybar 260 is for softer, lower melt point container waxes. A typical rate is a quarter to a half teaspoon per pound of wax, and it varies by application.

How much Vybar should I add to soy wax?

Most of our soy waxes are pre-blended and do not need Vybar. If you are working with a base paraffin or a wax the manufacturer says will benefit from it, a quarter to a half teaspoon per pound is the usual starting rate, adjusted by application. Too much Vybar can trap fragrance in the wax and reduce hot throw, so add conservatively and test.

What is the difference between Vybar 103 and Vybar 260?

They differ by the wax melt point they suit. Vybar 103 is for harder, higher melt point waxes such as pillar and votive waxes. Vybar 260 is for softer, lower melt point container waxes. Matching the grade to the wax keeps fragrance bound and color even without trapping the scent.

Do my candles and tarts need to cure, and for how long?

Yes. Curing is a resting period that lets the wax bind the fragrance molecules and reach its best scent throw. Rest candles and tarts about a week before the first burn. A short cure is the most common reason a candle that smelled strong unlit throws weakly when burning.

Does candle wax have a shelf life?

Paraffin wax lasts almost indefinitely when kept at room temperature, clean, and free of dust. Soy wax keeps about two years when stored properly. Keep soy wax in a climate-controlled space, and sealing it in a covered container helps keep it clean and stable.

Why can I smell my candle unlit but not while it is burning?

Cold throw, the scent of an unlit candle, does not guarantee hot throw, the scent while burning. Some fragrances bind and release better in a given wax than others, and soy in particular is denser and can hold fragrance more tightly. This is why test burning is important: judge a fragrance by its hot throw after a proper cure, not by how it smells unlit.